_/qmk_firmware
1
0
Fork 0
Code Releases Activity

[Docs] Update hand wire guide (#7044)

Browse source 
* Reorganised Hand Wire Guide

Added some images and put the "Matrix" section in a hidden <details> section

* Actually adding images this time

removed .jpg from .gitignore

* Hand wire guide updated

Incomplete, but started making the guide more general.  Will continue to add images (in imgur as requested)

* Removed some more images from gitignore

* testing image changes (temporary)

* Update hand_wire.md

* added techniques table

* Tweaking the table

* Finished soldering guide

* Fixed some links, change image scaling

* More of the same

* resizing images

* updated images

* Update hand_wire.md

* Resizing images

* Update hand_wire.md

* Update hand_wire.md

* Create ribbon_cable.jpg

* Minor updates to links

* Updated firmware and flashing guidelines

* Updated images to imgur links and re-added images to gitignore

* Implemented requested changes.  Improved wording

* Added handwire helpers info and split KB info

* Update hand_wire.md

* Removed "the" from "the QMK toolbox"

* Fixed handwire helper table and image size

* Fixed a heading
This commit is contained in:
Gouty 2019-10-25 19:48:59 +01:00 committed by noroadsleft
parent 0f30a4d2ca
commit 3fd919c536
2 changed files with 193 additions and 47 deletions
Show stats Download patch file Download diff file Expand all files Collapse all files

2
.gitignore vendored
View file

@ -60,8 +60,8 @@ util/Win_Check_Output.txt
# ignore image files
*.png
*.jpg
*.gif
*.jpg
# Do not ignore MiniDox left/right hand eeprom files
!keyboards/minidox/*.eep

238
docs/hand_wire.md
View file

@ -1,19 +1,18 @@
# Quantum Hand-Wiring Guide
# Hand-Wiring Guide
Parts list:
* *x* keyswitches (MX, Matias, Gateron, etc)
* *x* diodes
* Keyboard plate (metal, plastic, cardboard, etc)
* Wire (strained for wiring to the Teensy, anything for the rows/columns)
* Soldering iron set at 600ºF or 315ºC (if temperature-controlled)
* Rosin-cored solder (leaded or lead-free)
* Adequate ventilation/a fan
* Tweezers (optional)
* Wire cutters/snippers
## Preamble: How a Keyboard Matrix Works (and why we need diodes)
## How the Matrix Works (Why We Need Diodes)
The collapsible section below covers why keyboards are wired the way they are, as outlined in this guide. It isn't required reading to make your own hand wired keyboard, but provides background information.
The microcontroller (in this case, the Teensy 2.0) will be setup up via the firmware to send a logical 1 to the columns, one at a time, and read from the rows, all at once - this process is called matrix scanning. The matrix is a bunch of open switches that, by default, don't allow any current to pass through - the firmware will read this as no keys being pressed. As soon as you press one key down, the logical 1 that was coming from the column the keyswitch is attached to gets passed through the switch and to the corresponding row - check out the following 2x2 example:
<details>
<summary>Click for details</summary>
Without a matrix circuit each switch would require its own wire directly to the controller.
Simply put, when the circuit is arranged in rows and columns, if a key is pressed, a column wire makes contact with a row wire and completes a circuit. The keyboard controller detects this closed circuit and registers it as a key press.
The microcontroller will be setup up via the firmware to send a logical 1 to the columns, one at a time, and read from the rows, all at once - this process is called matrix scanning. The matrix is a bunch of open switches that, by default, don't allow any current to pass through - the firmware will read this as no keys being pressed. As soon as you press one key down, the logical 1 that was coming from the column the keyswitch is attached to gets passed through the switch and to the corresponding row - check out the following 2x2 example:
Column 0 being scanned Column 1 being scanned
x x
@ -100,30 +99,132 @@ Things act as they should! Which will get us the following data:
The firmware can then use this correct data to detect what it should do, and eventually, what signals it needs to send to the OS.
# The Actual Hand-Wiring
Further reading:
- [Wikipedia article](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keyboard_matrix_circuit)
- [Deskthority article](https://deskthority.net/wiki/Keyboard_matrix)
- [Keyboard Matrix Help by Dave Dribin (2000)](https://www.dribin.org/dave/keyboard/one_html/)
- [How Key Matrices Works by PCBheaven](http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_Key_Matrices_Works/) (animated examples)
- [How keyboards work - QMK documentation](/docs/how_keyboards_work.md)
## Getting Things in Place
</details>
When starting this, you should have all of your stabilisers and keyswitches already installed (and optionally keycaps). If you're using a Cherry-type stabiliser (plate-mounted only, obviously), you'll need to install that before your keyswitches. If you're using Costar ones, you can installed them afterwards.
To make things easier on yourself, make sure all of the keyswitches are oriented the same way (if they can be - not all layouts support this). Despite this, it's important to remember that the contacts on the keyswitches are completely symmetrical. We'll be using the keyswitch's left side contact for wiring the rows, and the right side one for wiring the columns.
## Parts list
Get your soldering iron heated-up and collect the rest of the materials from the part list at the beginning of the guide. Place your keyboard so that the bottoms of the keyswitches are accessible - it may be a good idea to place it on a cloth to protect your keyswitches/keycaps.
You will need: (where *x* is the number of keys on your planned keyboard)
Before continuing, plan out where you're going to place your Teensy. If you're working with a board that has a large (6.25u) spacebar, it may be a good idea to place it in-between switches against the plate. Otherwise, you may want to trim some of the leads on the keyswitches where you plan on putting it - this will make it a little harder to solder the wire/diodes, but give you more room to place the Teensy.
* QMK compatible microcontroller board (Teensy, Pro-Micro, QMK Proton C etc.)
* *x* keyswitches (MX, Matias, Gateron, etc)
* *x* through hole diodes
* Keyboard plate and plate mount stabilisers
* Wire
* Soldering iron
* Rosin-cored solder
* Adequate ventilation/a fan
* Wire cutters/snippers
## Preparing the Diodes
Optional but useful:
It's a little easier to solder the diodes in place if you bend them at a 90º angle immediately after the black line - this will help to make sure you put them on the right way (direction matters), and in the correct position. The diodes will look like this when bent (with longer leads):
* Wire strippers/a sharp knife
* Tweezers and/or small needle nose pliers
* Soldering station/Helping hands
```
┌─────┬─┐
───┤ │ ├─┐
└─────┴─┘ │
│
```
## Starting the build
We'll be using the long lead at the bent end to connect it to the elbow (bent part) of the next diode, creating the row.
There are many ways to hand wire a PCB matrix, this guide will describe the fundamentals as well as some recommended ways to go about it.
As we are dealing with hand wiring, it is assumed that you already have a plate. If you are planning a completely custom layout, tools such as [ai03 Plate Generator](https://kbplate.ai03.me/) and [Swillkb Plate & Case Builder](http://builder.swillkb.com/) can help when designing one.
Start by installing the switches and stabilisers in the plate. Depending on the thickness and material this may also involve hot gluing it in place.
## Planning the matrix
If you are following a pre-existing handwire guide (e.g. for the keyboards in the [handwire firmware section](/keyboards/handwired/) you can skip this step, just ensure you wire the matrix as described.
What you want to achieve is one leg from each switch being attached to the corresponding switches next to it (rows) and the other leg being attached to the switches above and below it (columns) and a diode to one of the legs, mosy commonly this will be the leg attached to the rows, and the diode will face away from it (Column to Row) i.e. with the wire furthest from the black line on the diode connected to the switch (as current will only travel in one direction through a diode)
It is fairly simple to plan for an ortholinear keyboard (like a Planck).
![Example planck matrix](https://i.imgur.com/FRShcLD.png)
Image from [RoastPotatoes' "How to hand wire a Planck"](https://blog.roastpotatoes.co/guide/2015/11/04/how-to-handwire-a-planck/)
But the larger and more complicated your keyboard, the more complex the matrix. [Keyboard Firmware Builder](https://kbfirmware.com/) can help you plan your matrix layout (shown here with a basic fullsize ISO keyboard imported from [Keyboard Layout Editor](http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com).
![Example ISO matrix](https://i.imgur.com/UlJ4ZDP.png)
Bear in mind that the number of rows plus the number of columns can not exceed the number of I/O pins on your controller. So the fullsize matrix shown above would be possible on a Proton C or Teensy++, but not on a regular Teensy or Pro Micro
#### Common Microcontroller Boards
| Board | Controller | # I/O | Pinout |
| :------------ |:-------------:| ------:| ------ |
| Pro Micro* | ATmega32u4 | 20 | [link](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pro-micro--fio-v3-hookup-guide/hardware-overview-pro-micro#Teensy++_2.0) |
| Teensy 2.0 | ATmega32u4 | 25 | [link](https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/pinout.html) |
| [QMK Proton C](https://qmk.fm/proton-c/) | STM32F303xC | 36 | [link 1](https://i.imgur.com/RhtrAlc.png), [2](https://deskthority.net/wiki/QMK_Proton_C) |
| Teensy++ 2.0 | AT90USB1286 | 46 | [link](https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/pinout.html#Teensy_2.0) |
*Elite C is essentially the same as a pro micro with a USB-C instead of Micro-USB
There are also a number of boards designed specifically for handwiring that mount directly to a small number of switches and offer pinouts for the rest. Though these are generally more expensive and may be more difficult to get hold of.
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/QiA3ta6.jpg" alt="Postage board mini mounted in place" width="500"/>
| Board | Controller | # I/O |
| :------------ |:-------------:| ------:|
| [Swiss helper](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8jg5d6/hand_wiring_this_might_help/) | ATmega32u4 | 20 |
| [Postage board](https://github.com/LifeIsOnTheWire/Postage-Board/)| ATmega32u4| 25 |
| [Postage board mini](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101460.0)| ATmega32u4| 25 |
## Wiring the matrix
There is no one right way to do this. What you want to achieve is good connection at all of the joints planned and no unintentional shorts.
Established materials and techniques include:
| Technique | Examples | Pros | Cons | Image
| :-----------| :------- | :------ | :--- | :---
| Lengths of wire with stripped segments | [Sasha Solomon's Dactyl](https://medium.com/@sachee/building-my-first-keyboard-and-you-can-too-512c0f8a4c5f) and [Cribbit's modern hand wire](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0) | Neat and tidy | Some effort in stripping the wire | ![Stripped wire](https://i.imgur.com/0GNIYY0.jpg)
| Short lengths of wire | [u/xicolinguada's ortho build](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/c39k4f/my_first_hand_wired_keyboard_its_not_perfect_but/) | Easier to strip the wire | More difficult to place | ![individual wire lengths](https://i.imgur.com/mBe5vkL.jpg)
| Magnet/Enamelled wire | [Brett Kosinski's handwired alpha](http://blog.b-ark.ca/Blog-2019-01-27) and [fknraiden's custom board](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74223.0) | Can be directly soldered onto (insulation burns off with heat) | Appearance? | ![Magnet wire](https://i.imgur.com/b4b7KDb.jpg)
| Bending the legs of the diodes for the rows | [Matt3o's Brownfox](https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6050) | Fewer solder joints required | Uninsulated | ![Bent diode legs](https://i.imgur.com/aTnG8TV.jpg)
| Using ridid wiring (e.g. brass tube) | [u/d_stilgar's invisible hardline](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8aw5j2/invisible_hardline_keyboard_progress_update_april/) and [u/jonasfasler's first attempt](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/de1jyv/my_first_attempt_at_handwiring_a_keyboard/) | Very pretty | More difficult. No physical insulation | ![Hardline hand wire](https://i.imgur.com/CnASmPo.jpg)
| Bare wire with insulation added after (e.g. kapton tape) | [Matt3o's 65% on his website](https://matt3o.com/hand-wiring-a-custom-keyboard/) | Easier (no wire stripping required) | Not as attractive | ![Bare wire](https://i.imgur.com/AvXZShD.jpg)
| Copper tape | [ManuForm Dactyl](https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard) | Very easy | Only really works when your plate/case aligns with the bottom of your switches | ![Copper tape](https://i.imgur.com/RFyNMlL.jpg)
Note that these methods can be combined. Prepare your lengths of wire before moving on to soldering.
### A note on split keyboards
If you are planning a split keyboard (e.g. Dactyl) each half will require a controller and a means of communicating between them (like a TRRS or hardwired cable). Further information can be found in the [QMK split keyboard documentation.](/docs/feature_split_keyboard.md)
### Soldering
There are a lot of soldering guides and tips available elsewhere but here are some of the most useful and relevant for hand wiring:
To ensure a strong solder joint you want a good amount of contact between the solder and the 2 peices of metal you are connecting, a good way of doing this (though not required) is looping around pins or twisting wires together before applying solder.
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/eHJjmnU.jpg" alt="Looped around rod" width="200"/> <img src="https://i.imgur.com/8nbxmmr.jpg?1" alt="Looped diode leg" width="200"/>
If your diodes are on a packaging strip and need a bend in them (either the start of a loop or for connecting to its neighbour) this can easily done by bending it over something straight like the edge of a box, table, or ruler. This also helps keep track of the direction of the diode as all the bends will be on the same side.
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/oITudbX.jpg" alt="Bent diode legs" width="200"/>
If your iron has temperature control, set it to 315ºC (600ºF).
Once heated, tin your soldering iron - this means melting a small amount of solder on the end of the iron and then quickly wiping it off on a wet sponge or wire cleaning pad, leaving a shiny silvery coating on the end which helps keep oxidisation at bay and helps solder to flow.
When you come to apply the solder, hold the soldering iron against the two surfaces for a second to heat it, then apply a small amount of solder to join the two pieces together. Heating the surfaces ensures that the solder adheres to it and that it does not cool too quickly.
Don't hold the iron on the solder/joint longer than necessary. Heat will be conducted through the surfaces and can damage components (melt switch housings etc.). Also, solder contains flux, which aids in ["wetting"](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wetting). The longer heat is applied to the solder the more flux will evaporate meaning you may end up with a bad solder joint with peaks which, apart from looking bad, may also increase the risk of electrical shorts.
The following collapsible section describes in detail how to solder rows using the bent diode technique and columns using short lengths of wire.
<details>
<summary>Click for details</summary>
## Soldering the Diodes
@ -169,34 +270,52 @@ Before beginning to solder, it helps to have your wire pre-bent (if using single
If you're not using any insulation, you can try to keep the column wires elevated, and solder them near the tips of the keyswitch contacts - if the wires are sturdy enough, they won't short out to the row wiring an diodes.
## Wiring Things to the Teensy
</details>
Now that the matrix itself is complete, it's time to connect what you've done to the Teensy. You'll be needing the number of pins equal to your number of columns + your number of rows. There are some pins on the Teensy that are special, like D6 (the LED on the chip), or some of the UART, SPI, I2C, or PWM channels, but only avoid those if you're planning something in addition to a keyboard. If you're unsure about wanting to add something later, you should have enough pins in total to avoid a couple.
# Wiring up the controller
The pins you'll absolutely have to avoid are: GND, VCC, AREF, and RST - all the others are usable and accessible in the firmware.
Now that the matrix itself is complete, it's time to connect what you've done to the microcontroller board.
Place the Teensy where you plan to put it - you'll have to cut wires to length in the next step, and you'll want to make sure they reach.
Place the microcontroller where you want it to be located, give thought to mounting and case alignment. Bear in mind that the location of the USB socket can be different from the controller by using a short male to female cable if required,.
Starting with the first column on the right side, measure out how much wire you'll need to connect it to the first pin on the Teensy - it helps to pick a side that you'll be able to work down, to keep the wires from overlapping too much. It may help to leave a little bit of slack so things aren't too tight. Cut the piece of wire, and solder it to the Teensy, and then the column - you can solder it anywhere along the column, but it may be easiest at the keyswitch. Just be sure the wire doesn't separate from the keyswitch when soldering.
Find the pinout/documentation for your microcontroller board ([links here](#common-microcontroller-boards)) and make a note of all the digital I/O pins on it (note that on some controllers, like the teensy, analogue I/O can double as digital) as these are the pins you want to connect your wires to.
As you move from column to column, it'll be helpful to write the locations of the pins down. We'll use this data to setup the matrix in the future.
<details>
When you're done with the columns, start with the rows in the same process, from top to bottom, and write them all down. Again, you can solder anywhere along the row, as long as it's after the diode - soldering before the diode (on the keyswitch side) will cause that row not to work.
<summary>Specific instructions for the Teensy 2.0</summary>
As you move along, be sure that the Teensy is staying in place - recutting and soldering the wires is a pain!
There are some pins on the Teensy that are special, like D6 (the LED on the chip), or some of the UART, SPI, I2C, or PWM channels, but only avoid those if you're planning something in addition to a keyboard. If you're unsure about wanting to add something later, you should have enough pins in total to avoid a couple.
## Additional guides
The pins you'll absolutely have to avoid, as with any controller, are: GND, VCC, AREF, and RST - all the others are usable and accessible in the firmware.
</details>
Cut wires to the length of the distance from the a point on each column/row to the controller. You can solder anywhere along the row, as long as it's after the diode - soldering before the diode (on the keyswitch side) will cause that row not to work.
Ribbon cable can be used to keep this extra tidy. You may also want to consider routing the wires beneath the exisiting columns/rows.
<img src="https://i.imgur.com/z2QlKfB.jpg" alt="Ribbon Cable" width="350"/>
As you solder the wires to the controller make a note of which row/column is going to which pin on the controller as we'll use this data to setup the matrix when we create the firmware.
As you move along, be sure that the controller is staying in place - recutting and soldering the wires is a pain!
If you're more of a visual learner, or want some additional tips and something more to follow along, these two visual step by step guides may be helpful:
- [BrownFox's step by step guide](https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6050)
- [Cribbit's modern hand wiring guide](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0)
# Getting Some Basic Firmware Set Up
From here, you should have a working keyboard once you program a firmware. Before we attach the Teensy permanently to the keyboard, let's quickly get some firmware loaded onto the Teensy so we can test each keyswitch.
From here, you should have a working keyboard once you program a firmware.
To start out, download [the firmware](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/) - we'll be using my (Jack's) fork of TMK called QMK/Quantum. We'll be doing a lot from the Terminal/command prompt, so get that open, along with a decent text editor like [Sublime Text](http://www.sublimetext.com/) (paid) or [Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com) (free).
Simple firmware can be created easily using the [Keyboard Firmware Builder](https://kbfirmware.com/) website. Recreate your layout using [Keyboard Layout Editor](http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com), import it and recreate the matrix (if not already done as part of [planning the matrix](#planning-the-matrix).
Go through the rest of the tabs, assigning keys until you get to the last one where you can compile and download your firmware. The .hex file can be flashed straight onto your keyboard, and the .zip of source files can be modified for advanced functionality and compiled locally using the method described in the collapsable section below, or using the more comprehensive [getting started guide.](/docs/newbs_getting_started)
<details>
<summary>Creating and compiling your firmware locally (command line method)</summary>
To start out, download [the firmware](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/) - We'll be doing a lot from the Terminal/command prompt, so get that open, along with a decent text editor like [Sublime Text](http://www.sublimetext.com/) (paid) or [Visual Studio Code](https://code.visualstudio.com) (free).
The first thing we're going to do is create a new keyboard. In your terminal, run this command, which will ask you some questions and generate a basic keyboard project:
@ -319,9 +438,22 @@ Once everything is installed, running `make` in the terminal should get you some
Once you have your `<project_name>.hex` file, open up the Teensy loader application, and click the file icon. From here, navigate to your `QMK/keyboards/<project_name>/` folder, and select the `<project_name>.hex` file. Plug in your keyboard and press the button on the Teensy - you should see the LED on the device turn off once you do. The Teensy Loader app will change a little, and the buttons should be clickable - click the download button (down arrow), and then the reset button (right arrow), and your keyboard should be ready to go!
</details>
## Flashing the Firmware
Install [QMK toolbox](https://github.com/qmk/qmk_toolbox).
![QMK Toolbox](https://i.imgur.com/86Cz30H.png)
Under "Local File" navigate to your newly created .hex file. Under "Microcontroller", select the corresponding one for your controller board (common ones available [here](#common-microcontroller-boards)).
Plug in your keyboard and press the reset button (or short the Reset and Ground pins if there is no button) and click the "Flash" button in QMK toolbox.
## Testing Your Firmware
Carefully flip your keyboard over, open up a new text document, and try typing - you should get the characters that you put into your keymap. Test each key, and note the ones that aren't working. Here's a quick trouble-shooting guide for non-working keys:
Use a website such as [keyboard tester](https://www.keyboardtester.com/tester.html)/[keyboard checker](http://keyboardchecker.com/) or just open a text editor and try typing - you should get the characters that you put into your keymap. Test each key, and make a note of the ones that aren't working. Here's a quick trouble-shooting guide for non-working keys:
0. Flip the keyboard back over and short the keyswitch's contacts with a piece wire - this will eliminate the possibility of the keyswitch being bad and needing to be replaced.
1. Check the solder points on the keyswitch - these need to be plump and whole. If you touch it with a moderate amount of force and it comes apart, it's not strong enough.
@ -330,11 +462,25 @@ Carefully flip your keyboard over, open up a new text document, and try typing -
4. Check the solder joints on both sides of the wires going to/from the Teensy - the wires need to be fully soldered and connect to both sides.
5. Check the `<project_name>.h` file for errors and incorrectly placed `KC_NO`s - if you're unsure where they should be, instead duplicate a k*xy* variable.
6. Check to make sure you actually compiled the firmware and flashed the Teensy correctly. Unless you got error messages in the terminal, or a pop-up during flashing, you probably did everything correctly.
7. Use a multimeter to check that the switch is actually closing when actuated (completing the circuit when pressed down).
If you've done all of these things, keep in mind that sometimes you might have had multiple things affecting the keyswitch, so it doesn't hurt to test the keyswitch by shorting it out at the end.
# Securing the Teensy, Finishing Your Hardware, Getting Fancier Firmware
# Finishing up
Once you have confirmed that the keyboard is working, if you have used a seperate (non handwire specific) controller you will want to secure it in place. This can be done in many different ways e.g. hot glue, double sided sticky tape, 3D printed caddy, electrical tape.
If you found this fullfilling you could experiment by adding additional features such as [in switch LEDs](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94258.0), [in switch RGB](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5s1l5u/photoskeyboard_science_i_made_a_handwired_rgb/), [RGB underglow](https://medium.com/@DavidNZ/hand-wired-custom-keyboard-cdd14429c7b3#.7a1ovebsk) or even an [OLED display!](https://www.reddit.com/r/olkb/comments/5zy7og/adding_ssd1306_oled_display_to_your_build/)
There are a lot of possibilities inside the firmware - explore [docs.qmk.fm](http://docs.qmk.fm) for a full feature list, and dive into the different keyboards to see how people use all of them. You can always stop by [the OLKB subreddit](http://reddit.com/r/olkb) or [QMK Discord](https://discord.gg/Uq7gcHh) for help!
# Links to other guides:
- [matt3o's step by step guide (BrownFox build)](https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6050) also his [website](https://matt3o.com/hand-wiring-a-custom-keyboard/) and [video guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVzpsjFWPP4)
- [Cribbit's "Modern hand wiring guide - stronger, cleaner, easier"](https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87689.0)
- [Sasha Solomon's "Building my first Keyboard"](https://medium.com/@sachee/building-my-first-keyboard-and-you-can-too-512c0f8a4c5f)
- [RoastPotatoes' "How to hand wire a Planck"](https://blog.roastpotatoes.co/guide/2015/11/04/how-to-handwire-a-planck/)
- [Masterzen's "Handwired keyboard build log"](http://www.masterzen.fr/2018/12/16/handwired-keyboard-build-log-part-1/)
Now that you have a working board, it's time to get things in their permanent positions. I've often used liberal amounts of hot glue to secure and insulate things, so if that's your style, start spreading that stuff like butter. Otherwise, double-sided tape is always an elegant solution, and electrical tape is a distant second. Due to the nature of these builds, a lot of this part is up to you and how you planned (or didn't plan) things out.
There are a lot of possibilities inside the firmware - explore [docs.qmk.fm](http://docs.qmk.fm) for a full feature list, and dive into the different keyboards (Planck, Clueboard, Ergodox EZ, etc) to see how people use all of them. You can always stop by [the OLKB subreddit for help!](http://reddit.com/r/olkb)